Alaska Trip Day 31: Juneau → Seattle → Hong Kong

Seattle , 6 June 2020, during anti-police brutality rioting.

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19.  Click here  for Day 1 of the virtual (proposed) vacation. Then click “newer post”]

And so home. Juneau to Seattle and thence Hong Kong. 

Had we actually done this trip at the time, we would have just missed the George Floyd-related rioting and looting in cities we visited, LA, Las Vegas, Salt Lake City. We would have been aboard Safari Endeavour.
But we would have bumped into the madness in Seattle, the post George Floyd killings protests, and some rioting and looting. In Seattle, this led to, yesterday, 9 June, to the establishment of a “Capital Hill Autonomous Zone”, run by anti-government, anti-police people. We might have been there in time to see it...

When I do the trip like this, virtually, day by day, I realise that I have to pat myself in the back, cause it looks like a truly wonderful itinerary. First the road trip in the southwest, around desert and high mountain country, the Joshua Tree National Park, the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, the Grand Tetons, Jackson Hole, the Spiral Jetty. And then fourteen days in a small, boutique Alaskan cruiser. Wonderful. Then again, it’s the wonder of America that makes the itinerary easy. Would be difficult to make it other than wonderful.
I do hope we can do this in real life. The cruise company didn’t return our deposit, but put it towards a trip with them we can take up any time before December 2021. I thought that pretty fair, and, feeling for them, decide not to press. Just hope they’re still around next year.
And it has to be soon. For me, at 70, it’s tempus fugit. Or, as Groucho said “time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana”.
ADDED: I’m writing this on 6 June. There are still riots going in in Seattle connected with the police killing of George Floyd. Can’t tell if will still be happening on the 8th, when we plan our virtual pass through. The pic above comes from this article in a local paper which notes:

Monday morning on his show, Todd examined the destruction of the city of his youth and his home of 20 years. He started by reminding his listener family about how the Seattle news media expressed love and compassion for an Antifa terrorist who tried to kill Federal Agents.

Jay Inslee and Bob Ferguson did nothing to investigate his Antifa splinter group, the John Brown Gun Club. Now, that terrorist’s comrades have destroyed Seattle.

There are some who say if you connect Antifa with the riots you’re just echoing a false Trump meme, so better be careful. There’s a distinct disinclination by elements in the left to acknowledge the involvement of Antifa, despite the evidence of mayors and police chiefs around the country, despite the clear evidence on live vids (the black bloc is a giveaway) and despite the fact they’ve been doing this sort of stuff for ages — I’ve seen then in action for at least a year, turning up at demos is standard MO. Seattle is one of their early stamping grounds.
They’re also inspiration, in look and methods, for our very own rioters here in Hong Kong to which we’ll be returning from our virtual vacation.
And so home…

Alaska Trip Day 30: Juneau → Disembarkation

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

"DAY 15 Juneau – Disembarkation It’s your last morning of freshly baked pastries. Eat ‘em up and get in your farewells as you cruise into Juneau to transfer to the airport or begin your UnCruise hotel stay or land tour."

Juneau

Alaska Trip Day 29: Haines

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

"DAY 14  Haines The unofficial adventure capital of Alaska. Hard-charging or smell the flowers, pick your speed. In this bald eagle hotspot, you have choices to make. Hit the trailhead with your guides to the top of Chilkat Peninsula or the shores of Chilkat Inlet. Some of the best trails with the best views. The local history—native culture, influence from European explorers, as a US Army outpost, and its gold rush past. Chilkat Tlingit members come aboard and share their tribe’s cultural history and thousands-of-year-old legacy. Soak it up. Then see the sites on foot or by bike with free time in town. It’s a big day. Tonight, celebrate your voyage with a Farewell Dinner and special photo recap from your expedition team."

Haines

Alaska Trip Day 28: Lynn Canal → Captain’s Choice

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

"DAY 13  Lynn Canal / Captain’s Choice Not so much a canal, as a fjord—in fact, North America’s deepest at over 2,000 feet. This once-major route of Klondike gold rushers is now a busy inlet for humpbacks, orcas, Dall’s porpoise, Steller sea lions, salmon, halibut, and mischievous river otters. And that’s at water level. Look up, and you see bald eagles. Looking like golf balls in the tree tops when they’re not soaring overhead. But it’s not all looking and seeing today, your captain is on task to pick the prime spot for adventure. Feel the burn on a long paddling excursion. Search tide pools for microscopic life. Or, hike a shadow-filled forest."

Lynn Canal

Alaska Trip Day 27: Chichagof Island

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

“DAY 12 Chichagof Island Your course is set—wildlife-rich Alaskan wilderness. Head to the bridge or bow, and watch for whales and other creatures before tucking into Port Frederick or some other wild inlet. You’re about to get a close up look. Muskeg under foot, head out on a bushwhacking hike in the Tongass National Forest. Kayak along an inky-dark fjord, or board a skiff, eyes wide for bears on shore.”

Chichagof Island

"Chichagof is the largest of Alaska's ABC Islands Alaska (Admiralty, Baranof, Chichagof). All three are located in the Alexander Archipelago and are part of the Tongass National Forest. Most of the islands' area is protected wilderness, with a minimal human presence on them. Chichagof is located directly north of Baranof, both being separated by the Peril Strait. Chichagof is bounded to the east by Chatham Strait, to the northeast by Icy Strait, to the northwest by Cross Sound and to the west by Gulf of Alaska.” [From here]

Alaska Trip Day 26: Glacier Bay National Park

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

“DAY 11 Glacier Bay National Park Enter, the granddaddy of national parks—Glacier Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve. Once you round Point Gustavus, a park ranger joins you on board with a font of knowledge. The specialness of this place starts to sink in, as one of its truly privileged visitors. Sea lions jockey for position among puffins, black oystercatchers, and other sea birds at South Marble Island. Mountain goats climb and bears scrounge for food along the park’s inland shores. Motor deeper into the park to Margerie and Grand Pacific, two tidewater glaciers on their downward march into the bay.”

Glacier Bay National Park. More photos

Alaska Trip Day 25: Icy Strait

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

“DAY 10 Icy Strait Nothing like kick starting the morning with on-deck yoga stretches and a chaser of exploration mode d’jour—motor, paddle, boots. It might be your toughest transition of the day. In and around Icy Strait, glide through giant bullwhip kelp (it can grow to over 100 feet long). Skiff to a rocky outcroppping and watch sea lions play. Mud boots serve their purpose on a forest hike with your top-notch guides, who are sharp and have plenty to share about everything Alaska— animals, plants, and even geology. At the end of this unforgettable day, you’ve earned a soak in the hot tub.”

Icy Strait Point from here

Alaska Trip Day 24: Kristof Sound → Nakwasina Sound

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

”DAY 9 Krestof Sound / Nakwasina Sound Shhh.If you don’t say a word, you can hear the sounds of these Sounds. Dense Baranof Island forest to one side. Small, wild, lesser-known islands on the other. You might even spot black bears loping on shore although they’re likely to catch a whiff of you first. And keep watch for neighboring sea lions and eagles, too. Drop anchor and find adventure. Slip into a kayak. Nose along shore in a skiff. Or head into the Tongass National Forest on foot with your expedition team. The possibilities, endless. Reward yourself when you get back to the boat, the crew will have a treat waiting.”

Nakwasina Sound. More photos

Alaska Trip Day 23: Sitka

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

”DAY 8 Sitka While others end their adventure and new guests join later in the day, you’ll spend the day off the boat. It’s a quick ride to Fortress of the Bear. Tour this home for orphaned bears and observe their unique personalities. With access to the Tongass National Forest all around you, take the hint and take a hike—your guides know the way. Or get to know Russian-influenced Sitka as you please—shuttles will run from your ship into town. Reboard in time for happy hour and get to know newly arrived travel mates. Set sail into Sitka Sound with unmistakable views of Mt. Edgecumbe—a volcanic wonder in its own right. Laundry service is provided today.”

Sitka

Alaska Trip Day 22: Sergius Narrows → Neva Strait

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

“DAY 7 Sergius Narrows / Neva Strait There aren’t many straight lines along Baranof Island. Its western side is dotted with hundreds of coves and uninhabited islands. This is a prime area for spotting sea otters. It’s no surprise to round a corner in your kayak and find one looking at you and you looking at him. The protected beaches are made for exploring the intertidal zones, and spotting bears. So, boot up for a guided hike. End your day with celebration and a toast at dinner with your captain. Your expedition team treats you to a photo recap of the week’s adventures.”

Kakul Narrows, Sergius Narrows, Peril Strait, Baranof Island

Alaska Trip Day 21: Baranof Island → Peril Strait

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

“DAY 6 Baranof Island / Peril Strait Leave it to the captain to steer you through Chatham and Peril Straits. At Baranof Island, your top-notch expedition team has the game plan dialed. Tap some of the most untouched wilderness in the Tongass. Head to the woods for an adventuresome bushwhack. Or slide into a kayak for an easygoing shoreline paddle. Find a perch on deck in Peril Strait—it’s a twisting drama of currents and history..

Peril Strait

Alaska Trip Day 20: Kake → Frederick Sound

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

“DAY 5 Kake / Frederick Sound  “Kake” comes from a Tlingit word meaning “opening of daylight.” Apropos, start your day in this native village with traditional storytelling and dancing. Count the many totems on their 132-foot pole. Drop the kayaks in Saginaw Bay or some other hidden cove along the Keku Islands. Black bears are common sights along shore. But so are eagles in the treetops and orange-billed surf scoters paddling nearby. For hikers, your guides have a route in mind. Make for the forest, far off the map. Cruising Frederick Sound, chances are high you’ll see humpbacks. The up-welling of nutrients in the water make it an irresistible feeding ground.”

More photos

More photos

Kake. Pronounced “cake"

Alaska Trip Day 19: LeConte Glacier → Ideal Cove

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

“DAY 4 LeConte Glacier / Ideal Cove LeConte is the southernmost tidewater glacier in North America. If tides are low, take a boot-sucking walk to check out icebergs resting on the mudflats. If it’s high tide, a skiff ride brings you up-close to its iceberg gardens. Surrounded by national forest, Ideal Cove’s boardwalk trails wind through meadows of ferns and grasses. Or test your balance paddle boarding in this quiet cove. It’s just you and the vast wilderness.”

LeConte glacier. Melting fast

Alaska Trip Day 18: Thomas Bay → Baird Glacier

From the brochure:

“DAY 3 Thomas Bay / Baird Glacier Have your rubber boots handy. You’re in for muskeg and mud in Alaska’s backcountry. Hiking along Baird’s moraine, look for shimmers of gold and quartz—this area is known for it. 

“The glacial outwash plains look almost lunar, but you’re not alone in this moonscape. The glacial valley is a nesting hot-spot for arctic terns. Splash away the mud before a paddle along the bay’s mossy cliff walls. Back on board, it’s time for a cocktail and a soak in the hot tub.”

Thomas Bay:

More photos here

Alaska Trip Day 17: Juneau → Tracy Arm → Stephens Passage

Weather in Tracy Arm and Stephens Passage today: 7-12 and rainy

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

From the brochure:

“DAY 2 Tracy Arm / Stephens Passage Wake in a fjord flanked by sheer granite walls. Grab a hot cup of joe and take it all in from the bow. Cascading waterfalls. Drifting icebergs. A lazy harbor seal or two. Layer up with gloves and a warm hat, and hop in a skiff for a better look at the glacier—the temps drop the closer you get. Your expedition guide clues you in to signs of the ice ages that carved this landscape. The geology is fascinating and so is the wildlife. Keep an eye out for mountain goats, bears, and eagles. Make waves for Stephens Passage. It’s all hands on deck watching for signs of humpbacks. It’s a big first day!”

Homing in on Tracy Arm:

And more here

Alaska Trip Day 16: Juneau → Segway → Endeavour

Segway ecotours around Juneau

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

We have a day in Juneau before boarding the ‘Safari Endeavour’.  Maybe we’ll do the three-hour Segway eco-tour of Juneau.
The Safari Endeavour:

84 passengers, 36 crew.  More details

"Polished, unwavering, and upscale, the Safari Endeavour may be the workhorse of the fleet but it’s her zest-for-life persona that’s remembered most. She looks sharp—a nod to the crew who work hard to keep her that way. Wood fixtures and accents shine and artwork highlights the warm and cool waters where she sails. No other UnCruise vessel covers more territory, and like her namesake, Captain Cook’s Endeavour, both the ship and crew are true explorers. Her roomy lounge, dining room, and sun deck are undisputed, but the Safari Endeavour claims to have the biggest heart, too.” [From Here]

Day 1: Juneau – Embarkation

“Welcome to Alaska’s capital, where your home on the water awaits. Come aboard, meet your crew, and unpack your adventurous spirit. Your course is set for glaciers, and the Tongass—the largest national forest in the U.S.”

Alaska Trip Day 15: Jackson Hole → Salt Lake City → Juneau

Weather in SLC today 6-23 C partly cloudy. 

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

Today is a drive from Rustic Inn, Jackson Hole to Salt Lake City airport and thence flight to Juneau in Alaska. To start the Alaska trip proper.
We go down a different route to the east, in and out of Wyoming and Utah.
I’m it sure if it’s going to be possible to get to the airport in time for the flight so we may well have to leave the day earlier,  but what the heck, this is an imaginary drive to an imaginary flight to an imaginary place, so we end up in Juneau Alaska, after an imaginary trouble-free drive and an imaginary easy seven hour flight....
And as I listen to Norah Jones jam at home. And I imagine other times. As she reminds me of someone.
Juneau:

Weather today 5-18C Sunny

Staying at the Juneau Hotel. Looks pretty basic … Juneau looks like it’s massively shaded at some time of the day, perhaps afternoon. I could look it up, but I’m too lazy.

Alaska Trip Day 14: Jackson Hole → Horse Riding

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

And plenty of other horse riding options in Jackson Hole. Jing did some in South America last year, enjoyed it.
It’ll be like in the vid, I’m sure, sun glancing off the still snowy peaks of the Grand Tetons.
Maybe we’ll even stay at the Dude Ranch....
The Chinese for “America” is 美國, Mei Guo which means “Beautiful Country”. And surely it is. 

Alaska Trip Day 13: Jackson Hole → Yellowstone → Jackson Hole

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

We do Rustic Inn → Yellowstone → Rustic Inn, in a day. Early start. Also maybe a reason to think maybe we ought be staying at Teton Village or Grand Teton, instead of Rustic Inn at Jackson. We’ll see. 

A drive up the “Hole”, the valley of Jackson, to Yellowstone National Park, the first ever National Park in the United States, the remnants of a super volcano that could erupt at any time. So NatGeo tells us. Magnificent Yellowstone. I believe we may have to book ahead to get an entry permit.
And plenty of land adventures.
On the way we pass by the world-famous ski field at Teton Village on our left. What I’ve always known as Jackson Hole. And where I’ve long wanted to go skiing. I wanted to do its scary black runs. If I went there now, I think I’d be sticking to the red and blue runs, being now built more for comfort than for courage. Here’s the map of the ski trails. Pretty awesome. [Correction: not “black, red and blue” runs; that’s European and Aussie. In the US it’s “black, blue and green”. And looking at the ski map, there’s not much of the latter at Jackson Hole. It’s skier’s ski field]. Look at those runs on the left at “Hoback”.  They are steep!

Check out Snowking

New alternative history novel, ‘Rodham’, by Curtis Sittenfeld, imagines if Hillary had not married Bill. Out today and I just bought it on Kindle and it’s just been delivered to my iPad.

Given we are in Jackson Hole, here’s a clip. They’re in Jackson Hole, at a liberal fundraiser. (and, btw, random fact I learned recently: 50-60% of a Congressperson’s time is spent in fundraising. What a life):

The Grand Tetons rose behind us, a jazz quartet played on a patio near a stream, servers pressed bacon-wrapped dates and tuna tartare, and an unsurpassed quality of progressive schmoozing occurred.

Will we also see an "unsurpassed quality of progressives schmoozing"?

Alaska Trip Day 12: Jackson Hole → Snake River boating

[Remember: this is just a Virtual Virus Vacation. It’s what I had booked before had to cancel coz Covid-19]

This looks like the go for today.... Would be nice to get some guided fly fishing in too...